![]() |
different kind of view for me at day 3 |
Freitag, 28. Februar 2014
an one week party!!!
Montag, 24. Februar 2014
not a Sunday coffee party
Yesterday I followed my surf buddies to experience the North Shore surfing. I knew, if I go with them, i will join an adventure, learn new things an go to my personal limit. And so I did. To bear down my fear of sharks and wanna get a feeling for real paddle distance, I went out with them to discover an outside reef break with 2.5- 3.5 Meter. For sure I did know not to surf any of these waves! Imagine us quite save, we where approaching slowly to the point. I guess I will always remember my last view out to the ocean before I started to paddle as fast as possible not to end in the breaking area...because there has been coming a FREAKY BIG set! Only two waves...cool...i thought...relaxing again. But no...further 5 more of these monsters have been rolling under me and two of my buddies, while never interrupted to paddle out out out. The third of them was to far inside and joined a get-together under water. After standing this situation I prayed to paddle back to get out of the water. We have been watching the ocean more the one hour before gettin`inside. But the ocean is surprisingly and unpredictable with it´s energy and you never know what can happen! Thx guys for my Sunday adventure especially to Kay...best surf coach on island! The feeling, to know why I am here at this place, became ones again stronger...closer to the ocean! I LOVE IT.
Samstag, 22. Februar 2014
Surprising conditions at my training-spot Sotavento.
Normally I´m used to have something like "flatwater" at this place, but these day was incredible wavy.
Result after the session: wanna more!
Abonnieren
Posts (Atom)